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In this blog post we are going to go over the basics of your sewing machine and get you more familiar with it.
The first thing we are going to do is take our thread and thread the machine. You can place the thread spool on the spool pin and you'll take the thread through the number 1 guide
Down through the number 2 guide that looks like a plastic hook.
Then take the thread up and around to the top again to the take up lever which is point number 3. The thread slides right into the little metal contraption.
Then you'll bring the thread down one more time in guide number 4.
Then your needle threader will come down and slide over. There is a tiny hook that slides through the eye of the needle, and your needle is threaded.
We will now slide our bobbin into the bobbin case. In this example we are using a top loading bobbin and the bobbin jumps slips is really easily. There is a little arrow that shows how the thread path goes for your bobbin. The top cover for the bobbin case can then be placed without much issue, and the black button on the side releases it.
Next we are going to lift the foot up using the black lever underneath the arm of the machine. Then we'll push the lever forward on the back of the pressing foot shank to release the foot.
Below where the foot was are the feed dogs, these pull the fabric through as we are sewing. To put the foot back on, place it back below the presser foot lifter and grab the handle again drop the lifter onto the foot to get it back in place. Sometime the presser foot lifter handle can be on the back of the arm verses inside.
Now that we are threading we are going to start with a straight stitch. On this machine it's the letter A.
We are going to now put our fabric underneath the presser foot. You can see the thread is behind the foot, that's where you. wanted it to stay when you're starting. It keeps it from getting a nest in the back. Is should also be noted we are at 2mm in length and at a 0 width. In this example we have a length of 2mm and 4mm. When changing your length always have your needle in the upright position. In the picture below you can see the difference between a 2mm and a 4mm stitch.
This is helpful when gathering fabric. For example if you were going to put a ruffle on a dress or on the edge of an apron. The larger the stitch length the easier it is to pull all those threads and gather it all up.
Now we are going to move on to the zigzag stitch which is letter C on this machine. We are also going to change the length back to 2mm to compare. In this example we are going to do a 5 width. With this chosen width the 5 will represent the mm between the zig (the left side) and the zag (the right side) of the stitch, our threads will also be behind again. When we change the length from 2mm to 4mm in this example it's going to spread out the zigzag. You can see the difference in the picture below.
With a zigzag stitch a cool trick you can do is making the stitch length to about 0, this makes a satin stitch. This is when the zig and zag are very close together. The satin stitch is a great stitch for mending. If you had to put a patch on something, you could use this to stitch along the edge, turn your fabric and stitch it on each side. Picture below for a satin stitch.
The button we haven't gone over yet that is very important is the reverse button. We are going to go back to a straight stitch and a length of 2.5 to 3. When you get started on a straight stitch most of the time you are going to want to secure it. What this means is that you are going to take a few stitches forward, you are going to push the reverse lever, which moves the feed dogs down and it goes in the opposite direction so your fabric is fed backwards. Once you have 1 or 2 stitches using the reverse lever you can release and move forward again.